Here's a guide to my favorite wine bars, trattorias, and special eating places along La Strada del Vino. Look for my decal in the window. And tell them Divina Cucina sent you!

Certaldo, my new home, is divided into Certaldo Alta (the medieval village) and modern Certaldo. It has a fabulous summer Renaissance festival in July; they close off the upper city to traffic and it's a festive day of street artists, actors, musicians, and bedlam! And packed with locals! It's difficult to eat a real meal here, so plan on eating before and just snacking during your visit. Market Day: Wednesday morning Nimphaea At the train station Located just outside the Certaldo train station, Nimphaea is a stop pre-departure or arrival snack. From coffee to cocktails, sweets to sandwiches, any time of the day is the right time. Having been a pastry chef, I am picky and Angelo's pastries are fabulous. He is from Naples, so be sure to try his sfogliatelle or baba au rhum, specialties from Naples. He makes several types of sfoglia, the breakfast-time puff pastry filled with rice pudding, apple, and my favorite, lemon! I especially love them when the outside sugar is a little caramelized. Trattoria C'era Una Volta Via Certaldese, 11 Lucardo, Montespertoli Tel: 0571-669-162 Closed Tuesday This is one of my favorite places to eat near my house in Certaldo. I have never had a bad meal. It was one of the redeeming parts of restoring our tiny piece of a farmhouse. On the road between Certaldo and Montespertoli, C'era Una Volta has a restaurant and wine bar. I love to make my stop here the big meal of the day. The fritto misto here is light as a feather, so I will often start with the mixed fried appetizers (cheese, zucchini fritters and polenta with herbs). I'll follow with tiny, juicy grilled lamb chops. Once I had guinea fowl with grapes that I will never forget. Everything here is fabulous...except dessert. But the food is so good you won't need it! If I do in season I opt for fresh strawberries with lemon ice cream--very refreshing. Their house wine is also very good, and they have a good wine list. Bar Italia Via 2 Giugno, 1/a Certaldo This great trio has created a fabulous spot in Certaldo, filled with locals for breakfast, snacks, and light lunch. Giovanni's Caffè Shakerato isn't just good; it's also beautiful! Don't miss the recipe. A great place for people watching. In the summer they have covered tables outside that stretch from the station to the Funiculare that takes you up to Certaldo Alto. Dolci Follie Via Roma, 3 Tel: 0571-668-188 Closed Tuesday Located in the main square of Certaldo, the Niccolini family has operated this fabulous pastry shop for over 40 years. Mamma Eda's pastries are some of the best I've ever tasted, and Vincenzo, her husband, is a wonderful host. They serve sandwiches as well as pastries, and you can get the desserts to go. I adore her biscotti and her cream puffs filled with chantilly cream, a sweet, vanilla-flavored whipped cream. Passing through the back of the pastry shop you will enter into La Saletta. La Saletta Osteria-Enoteca, the back room of Dolci Follie Their son Giampiero opened La Saletta seven years ago, and it's a fabulous complement to his mother's pastries.His wife Grazie is the chef and Giampiero is the sommellier. A lovely room with an incredible selection of wines to be enjoyed with his creative Tuscan food. Great selection of salamis, cheeses, and pasta, plus a full menu that changes daily. Open for lunch and dinner. Osteria del Vicario Via Rivellino, 3 Certaldo Alto Tel: 0571-668-228 Located in Certaldo Alto next to the Palazzo Pretorio at the top of the small but fascinating medieval town, home of Boccaccio. Great view with traditional dishes elegantly served. Wine is important here because the local sommeliers study at the restaurant. Garden dining in the summer. Web site www.osteriadelvicario.it Il Castello Via della Rena, 6 Certaldo Alto Tel: 0571-668-250 Located in the medieval Castle of Certaldo, with a panoramic view facing the valley. Romana Marcori runs the hotel and cooks for her clients and guests. The lovely garden with covered dining is a step into the past. Flowers are everywhere. There is a fountain that attracts turtles, so be careful when walking in the garden. The food is classic Tuscan, served with care. The hotel offers mezza-pensione, or your room, breakfast and one other meal. I recommend lunch out; let Romana take care of you at dinner after you've explored this beautiful region! Click on the city below that you plan to visit and I'll recommend the best places to stop for a bite to eat on La Strada del Vino. Strada in Chianti Greve Lamole Panzano Castellina Radda Gaiole San Casciano Certaldo Poggibonsi San Gimignano Monteriggioni Castelnuovo Berardenga Siena