Osteria Luchin Via Bighetti, 51-53 Chiavari (GE), Liguria Tel: 0185-301-063 Closed Sunday & November

ndrea's relatives hail mostly from Tuscany; however, some are from Camogli, a tiny village on the Ligurian coast. Camogli, short for Casa delle Moglie, the "wives houses," refers to the different colored houses that helped sailors identify their homes from out at sea. Years ago, we visited the area to see a Florentine friend who had been transferred to Chiaveri. But we don't get there often. Our most recent visit to the area rekindled my love affair with Liguria and its food. Driving from Florence to Genova, we stopped first at Carrara, so that my good friend Rozanne and her husband Bruce, an avid builder, could see the marble quarries. Incredible! We also took our guests to Portovenere, which I recommend as a base when visiting the Cinque Terre. This year we went when the ferry boats were running. The views of the Cinque Terre from the sea are breathtaking! You really get the feeling of the magnificent structure. I think it's preferable to hiking through the towns, which are crowded with backpackers and Italian students on field trips! From Portovenere we needed to return to Chiaveri to have lunch before continuing our journey to Genova. And am I glad we did! Osteria Luchin has been in the same family since 1907. The uncles, Antonio Bonino and Nicola Mangiante, take turns working alternate days as host and chef. The day we went, we were lucky to meet Nicola's son Luca. He suggested a tasting plate of the Torte e Ripieni, which we could see near the open ovens where they had been baked. My husband Andrea started with a Minestrone alla Genovese (with pesto) that was excellent. We all followed up with the tasting dish. There were stuffed miniature eggplants and onions, bell pepper slices with anchovies, incredible stuffed mussels, Polpettone di Patate, and Cima alla Genovese, a spinach-stuffed roast veal served cold. We missed the Farinata, an eggless chickpea crepe, famous in the area. Luca said we would have to come back in the evening when they are cooked non-stop! Perhaps next trip! We were so full and happy! Luca sat with us and gave us some culinary history and a recipe that will work well at home. It's Polpettone di Patate, which translates to "potato meatloaf," although it's meatless and flat! Try Luchin's Polpettone di Patate at home. READ ABOUT David Lebovitz Kate Hill Paulette Mitchell Benita Leo Piazzesi Gianni Migliorini Germana Conti Gabriele Ferron Osteria Luchin Federico Bacci Gastronomia Perini Romeo Colzi Dario Cecchini Mimmo Baldi Donatella Lauteri Giovanni Cappelli Fabio Picchi Andrea Francini WATCH FOR FUTURE PROFILES! Click here for Luchin's recipe for Polpettone di Patate.