I wait every year for March and Marzolino cheese, one of the seasonal treasures. The spring brings us the hills covered with new herbs and grass, and the Pecorino Sheeps Milk cheese made this time of year has a fabulous flavor acquired from these seasonal greens. At the San Lorenzo market, I usually go to two cheese purveyors; each specializes in a different Marzolino. The Perini Brothers shop, a double stand with prepared foods as well as cheeses on the Via del Ariento side of the market, has what has come to be known as "Judy's Cheese ." Andrea Perini (the brother with the stand on the right side) keeps this cheese on the counter in front of him. It has a yellowish firm rind, and is almost Brie-like in flavor and consistency. Another favorite is at the Baroni cheese stand in front of Stefano Conti's stand. It has the Marzolino from Tillo of the Fattoria Corzano e Paterno. Tillo is one of Tuscany's food gods, and famous for Rocco, Buccia di Rospo, and Erbolina cheeses as well. Traditionally white and pure, the flavor of the sheeps milk comes through dramatically. I like to serve it simply and classically, like Fabio Picchi does at Cibrèo--cut into tiny cubes and served with shelled young fava beans and drizzled with the best extra virgin olive oil, a sprinkling of salt, and fresh ground pepper. This season has been especially wonderful. Winter was short, and because Easter is early this year, all the festivals have brightened out winter. Carnevale in both Venice and Viareggio were great and Father's Day in Italy was celebrated March 19 (San Giuseppe, Jesus's dad!). Both are celebrated with rice fritters! The tiny village of Montefioralle above Greve sets up a huge fry pan for their annual fritter festival. Make your own little festival and try them out yourself; they are addictive! The batter is also great baked in tiny pastry shells; it's called Budino di Riso. It's served for breakfast in Florentine bars, with a sprinkling of vanilla-flavored powdered sugar. My friend Nora Kravis of Chianti Cashmere Company is also celebrating. Her goats have had kids! And, her sweet Bolognese dog just had a litter. They look like the goats. Stop by throughout the spring to visit the kids and also her cashmere soap shop. Attention shoppers! The first cashmere scarves are in! Our chef's recipe this season is from Federico Bacci of Cinque di Vino in San Casciano Val di Pesa. It is too early for basil pesto, so try his winter version Pesto di Salvia. It's one of my favorites! He also makes a kale version. Easter in Florence is celebrated in the Piazza del Duomo with the Brindellone ("Fire Cart"). A huge wooden cart is brought into the piazza and at the end of Mass at noon, a wooden dove is released from the main altar, and if it hits the Brindellone, it sets off a series of fireworks and guarantees a good harvest! For our Easter Menu, nothing is better than naked ravioli served simply with sage and butter sauce, roast lamb with the Tuscan herbs, oven-roasted vegetables, and a light dessert of strawberries with mascarpone mousse. NEWSLETTERS Life's Too Short [fall 2005] Pasqua [march 2005] Estate [summer 2004] Primavera [spring 2004] Tuscan Chocolate Valley [winter 2003] I Scream, U Scream, We All Scream for...Gelato! [summer 2003] Slow Food, Slow Travel [spring 2003] Sagre, Sagre, Sagre! [spring 2003] Tuscan Virgins [fall 2002] Fall Festivals [fall 2002] La Notte di San Lorenzo [summer 2002] Fireflies & Fireworks [summer 2002] I Love EWE! [spring 2002] Andrea's Christmas Dinner [winter 2001] Addio Bistecca alla Fiorentina! [summer 2001] Guelfa e Ghibellini [late summer 2001] Tartufi, Feste & Sagre [fall 2000] Piatti del Buon Ricordo [summer 2000] COMING SOON! Carrara: Marble & White Prosciutto