Here's a guide to my favorite wine bars, trattorias, and special eating places along La Strada del Vino. Look for my decal in the window. And tell them Divina Cucina sent you!

Siena was Florence's biggest enemy in medieval times. An incredibly beautiful city full of places to explore. Each of the churches contain fabulous treasures and the architecture alone will facinate you. The countryside outside the city to the south, called the Crete Sienese, is totally different than Chianti and leads to southern Tuscany, Montepulciano, Montalcino, and Pienza. There is the magnificent Duomo and the Piazza del Campo where the Palio is run in July and August. But I love just getting lost. Each of the neigborhoods (contrade) are very much alive today. There are 17 different contrade represented in the Palio; each has an animal as a mascot. You will see fabulous items in ceramic and silk to take home. Don't show off a Snail in the Eagle area! They are very touchy! As in Florence, you are most likey to see locals in tiny bars standing up with a glass of wine and a sandwich, and saving the big meals for home. Siena is worth several days. Market Day: Wednesday Mornings at La Lizza Osteria Le Logge Via del Porrione, 33 Tel: 0577-48013 Reservations a must! Closed Sunday Just off of the Piazza del Campo where they run the Palio, Le Logge has been a landmark for over twenty years. In addition to fabulous food, the ambience is special. In the summer, tables are available in the street where musicians serenade. They also publish a beautiful cookbook in Italian. Liberamente Piazza del Campo 27 Tel: 0577-274733 Open 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Liberamente was opened years ago by partners Gianni Brunelli from Osteria Le Logge (see above) and artist Sandro Chia who decorated it with lovely mosaics; click here for an example. Recently taken over by Antonio and Dimitri, Liberamente is the hopping place to be in the Piazza del Campo at almost any hour of the day. Wonderful wines by the glass accompanied by a tray of free antipasti; Italians never drink without eating something. The light menu is also wonderful. We had a tasting of the salumi (salted pork meats) made from the local Cinta Senese, which were fabulous. For snacks, sandwiches, soups, and pasta, it's a great place to stop and watch Siena! It is also possible to just have a drink! The music is pumped up and modern...no Pavorotti here, Antonio was a DJ! Enoteca I Terzi Via dei Termini, 7 Tel: 0577-44329 Closed Sunday Here wine is the focal point here; there are over 1,000 different wines offered! Try one of the tasting menus where the wine is paired by the glass with the dishes. The choice is overwhelming and the atmosphere is fabulous. Pasticceria Nannini Via Massetana Romana 42/44 Tel: 0577-285-208 On the main road from the Church of San Domenico to the Duomo, there are several bars serving Nannini's pastries and coffee, but this is the real thing. Don't be put off by all the crystal chandeliers and marble floors, this is just a bar. The Nannini family is one of the oldest in Siena making cenci, panforte, ricciarelli, and other traditional Sienese goodies. But here you can try them with a cup of great coffee, also produced by the Nannini family. There are tables in the back where you can sit down and enjoy your treats calmly, instead of standing at the bar with the locals. You can make this a light lunch with a sandwich and glass of wine or beer. They have a full bar and also serve ice cream. Hosteria Il Carroccio Via Casata di Sotto, 32 Tel: 0577-41165 Closed Wednesday in winter One of my favorites--tiny, a great menu, a fresh light interior, and friendly staff. I usually order the pici, a thick, chewy spaghetti typical of the region and served with a rich sauce. I also like the pecorino cheese served in a salad with honey and black pepper. They have a great tasting menu for two! If you are alone, adopt another single traveler and enjoy a really special meal. Enoteca Italiana Fortezza Medicea Tel: 0577-288-497 The enoteca is in the Fortezza, near the parking lot outside the main city. Here they have a musuem to Italian wines as well as a tasting bar. For the single client, there is a choice of over 20 wines for tasting by the glass, and a huge wine book (the word list is quite small!) of wines available by the bottle. If you have a group, they will organize tastings for you. The space is used for meetings by wine producers and wine professionals as well as several special days that are open to the public. It is a peaceful place outside the city with a lovely terrace to real and enjoy. Too bad there is no real food, just some snacks available off a small menu. La Torre Via Salicotto, 7 To the left of city hall off the Piazza Tel: 0577-287-548 Closed Thursday This is Mario's of Siena. No matter which contrada (district) of Siena my friends live in, La Torre is always their first recommendation. They have a great tourist menu--a full meal--at L. 35.000. The pasta is fresh, which means it is ready in a few minutes. The main courses are precooked, just like mamma would. One of the specialties is fiocchi--giant tortelloni. For my taste, they use a little too much tomato paste instead of sauce, so the ossobuco is not one of my favorites. I've enjoyed the roast lamb and pigeon. They have great roasted potatoes and a fabulous side salad. Andrea, my husband, ordered a torta della nonna that was exceptional. Like Mario's in Florence, coffee is not served here, but the Piazza dei Campo is full of great bars where you can go to enjoy the view and have a coffee Click on the city below that you plan to visit and I'll recommend the best places to stop for a bite to eat on La Strada del Vino. Strada in Chianti Greve Lamole Panzano Castellina Radda Gaiole San Casciano Certaldo Poggibonsi San Gimignano Monteriggioni Castelnuovo Berardenga Siena